August 08, 2007 Standing outside of the North Shore Scenic Railroad (NSSR) depot in downtown Duluth, Minnesota I waited for the restored Duluth Missabe & Iron Range (DM&IR) SD18 #193 to finish shoving around today's cars for its run out to Lester River. It was a warm, sunny day in August; but I thought back to how I got here and what a contrast it was to February 2007.
Snow was falling around the University of Minnesota campus as I arrived at GopherRail 2007. Walking inside, dusting snowflakes off my jacket, I caught sight of the silent auction room just inside the doors. Walking around the room for a while I spied the tickets for a ride on the Northshore Scenic Railroad. After putting in my bid I spent the next few hours checking out displays, movies, and lectures, all-the-while wondering if someone had out bid me.
Well as you may have guessed by this point, I won the tickets (along with another set of tickets which I will write about next month). Now that you know the background of my story, lets take a ride along the shores of the lake the Ojibwe call Gichigami (which means Big Water) or as Minnesotans call it, the North Shore.
Arriving early for the morning trip I watched the crew as they ran the locomotive around its train, hung the hoses, and air tested the train. I spied a long string of cars that would make up today’s consist: three restored passenger cars painted in Great Northen orange and black; a RPO; two Amtrak bi-level cars; and, a lone safari car. This last car is commonly used on their Pizza Train. I picked the car I was going to ride in as I waited for the conductor to call out that familiar line, "All aboard."
Answering several "emergency" phone calls from work, I finaly heard what I had been waiting for, a blast of the train's horn followed by the conductor calling out "now boarding for Lester River." Sadly, he did not use the more familiar words "all aboard." I gave him my ticket, climbed on-board and headed for the first Amtrak bi-level car. Climbing the stairs to the upper level, I took a seat and waited for the ride to start. Thankfully for me, it took some time for other riders to get on the train which gave me an opportunity to rethink my seating choice. Sitting inside on a nice summer day is something I do not like to do at home or work, so why would I do it here? I decided to make my way to the safari car and truly enjoy the ride along the lake.
Shoving out of the depot on to the main line that runs from Duluth to Two Harbors, I got a chance to check out some seldom seen pieces of railroad equipment stored along the old platforms that once saw people from all over the country arriving to stake their claim on the riches of North Shore iron ore. These platforms no longer shelter people from the weather as when they waited for trains such as Chicago & Northwestern's (C&NW) Arrowhead Limited, GN's Badger Express and the Soo Line's Laker. The passenger platform remains as silent witness to a time when rail travel ruled the country, keeping company with DM&IR cabooses, GN and CB&Q (Chicago, Burlington & Quincy) boxcars and several passenger cars just begging to get back on the rails. Completing our shove out onto the main we pulled north for Lester River.
Passing the modern Duluth lake front, we were treated to a historical perspective via loud speakers in every car. We were told where old roundhouses once stood, that a new hip nightspot was once a car repair facility, and that numerous rails once occupied the area now hidden by freeway overpasses and parking lots.
Spending time in Duluth, in the mid 1980s, I have been surprised by the amount of decline in rail traffic of the Twin Ports. I spent untold hours watching the Burlington Northern move cars about industrial areas of Duluth. I was even lucky enough to have been able to see the last years of barge service that rail cars were shoved onto. [It was a dedicated barge lined with rails; and I was always amazed that cars never derailed or tipped over going for a swim.]
Passing by the restored DM&IR Endion depot located at Canal Park, I was brought back from my flashbacks in time to take in the astounding view of the lake. Rolling by the lake boardwalk we waived at the throng of people out for their walks who would stop and look at the passing train. I could only wonder did they want to get on and ride with us?
Just north of the Interstate 35/Highway 61 Junction, we swung away from the lake and headed along a tree-lined section of track. Looking along the right-of-way you can see the red dirt, still rich with minerals and traces of iron ore, along with several small streams and creeks next to this section of the line. Passing over one of these steams, I was awestruck by the beauty of a pine tree-laden rock outcropping that formed atop a small waterfall. It glistened in the sun and had one of the most soothing sounds that mother nature could provide.
The train slowed a bit so we could take pictures before we made our way into the siding in North Duluth for a meet with the NSSR RDC1 9169 who was making his way to Two Harbors. While we sat in the siding, I chatted with other riders on the train and donated some AA batteries to a lady whose camera had died just after we left the depot. As the northbound Two Harbors train neared the siding, we shuffled for locations in our car for pictures of a version of a photo run-by. With waves coming from both trains, the approaching train arrived with a blast of its horn and disappeared into the trees to the north.
With open trackage, the DM&IR 193 cut off our train and ran around for the pull back to the depot. Switching gears for the ride back, I spent the return trip inside the RPO car chatting with a member of the train's crew about the rich rail history of the Twin Ports. It turned out he was once was employed by both the Great Northern and the Burlington Northern. The insight and knowledge I gain every time I meet an old-time railroader makes me appreciate the pioneers who struck out, linking this country by rail; in the process, giving birth to towns and businesses only to leave a valuable resource that has stood the test of time.
As I write this, I can only wonder what the landscape will look like in another 20 years? Will the railroads continue to thrive among mergers? Will small business continue to shift from rail to truck, because branch lines are closing at an accelerated rate every year or will shortline railroads make a come back thus completing the circle of boom or bust cycle of the railroads of the in United States? I, for one, hope for the continued up-turn in rail. Not only is rail a viable solution for our traffic woes, but the low cost of freight shipments from east to west and north to south. At any rate, you can rest assure I will be trackside no matter what, enjoying one of America's oldest hobbies: railfanning!